Summer is behind us now, but my wife Shelley and I still can't get Ceret and 'Appartement Ciel Bleu' out of our minds. In June we enjoyed our second visit, this time staying for two weeks. The qualities and comforts of the apartment were every bit as perfect as they were before, and it was fun to go on to do more exploring of the town and the surrounding area.
We've always loved the South of France, and it's great to find a location that's less trampled by tourists than Provence and the Côte d'Azur. Especially since it's got everything we enjoy right there. As beaches go, for instance, Argelès-sur-Mer couldn't be better. Less than 30 minutes away, it has a wide, uncrowded white-sand municipal beach and dozens of affordable seaside restaurants.
Something else that's barely been mentioned... if you're into medieval architecture and history, Ceret is an ideal jumping off point. About 40 minutes to the east is Collioure, with its massive 13th century castle rising up from an enclosed harbor. Even closer is a quiet little city called Elne, which has an impressive 12th through 14th century cathedral and a beautiful Romanesque cloister.
One day a driving expedition took us to to Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, a small but totally functioning walled town 40 minutes west of Ceret. There we wandered freely (in both senses of the word) through parapets and fortifications, then enjoyed a pastis at sunset under a tree below an ancient turret. On a slightly longer drive, (heading east of Perpignon), we discovered multiple amazing churches and abbeys along the Têt River, and explored the walled city of Villefranche-de-Conflent, which is a UNESCO world heritage site.
Two things that have changed since our first visit are worth noting. One is the arrival of "Fred's," a new restaurant in town recommended to us by Elaine and mentioned by another commenter. It has a lovely enclosed patio, the food and service are superb, and the prices are far more reasonable than you'd expect for truly gourmet faire. The other thing that's changed is that a high speed train now runs from Perpignan to Barcelona (and beyond). On our first trip to Ceret we explored a few nearby spots in Spain, but this time we zipped down to Barcelona for an overnight jaunt. What a treat.
I guess those are the words I should use to wrap up my thoughts about Elaine and Michael's 'Appartement Ciel Bleu'. What a treat.